Around the World With Uncle Moose: Days 5-7: Kosovo and Macedonia

Day 5: Kosovo

As we left Serbia, we took on a new guide. Sasha was replaced by Zoran, a native of Macedonia. (Sasha was an excellent guide, as was Zoran--I think the reason for the change was that Sasha had other obligations, or that Zoran was more familiar with the countries we were about to go to. Also, I don't remember exactly when/where we changed guides).

We began the day by visiting the Sopocani Monastery, just outside of Novi Pazar. The monastery was built between 1259 and 1270, and frescoes in the monastery date from that time.

Exterior of the monastery

Exterior gate of the monastery

After visiting the monastery, we went back to Novi Pazar to see the city in the daylight.

Novi Pazar by daylight

A park in Novi Pazar

The same hotel over the river that we saw the previous night

After visiting Novi Pazar, we headed into Kosovo, the second-newest country in the world. (The answer to your next question is: South Sudan). 92 percent of the population is of Albanian heritage, with almost all of them being Muslim. As you may remember from the introduction, the Albanians are not fond of the Serbs, and vice versa, so most of the residents of Kosovo were not happy being part of Serbia. After several years of war, Kosovo became independent in 2008, although Serbia still considers Kosovo to be part of Serbia.

Kosovo countryside

A small town in northern Kosovo

If you were wondering about the speed limit for tanks.

Our first stop in Kosovo was the Patriarchate of Pec, a monastery that that consists of four churches, built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Patriarchate of Pec

Tower in the monastery yard

Tombstones in the monastery yard

After leaving the monastery, we made a brief stop in the town of Peja, so that we could get some money, postcards, and stamps. One of the streets in the town is named after General Wesley Clark, who commanded the troops that aided Kosovo in their war for independence (a reason why Serbia doesn't like the US).

General Wesley Clark Street

The center of Peja

More of Peja

From Peja, we headed to the Decani Monastery, which was built in the early 1300s.

Decani Monastery

We weren't allowed to take pictures in the monastery, so here are a couple I pilfered from the web.

The monastery, as most others in Kosovo, was guarded by European Union troops, who had a checkpoint outside the entrance.

EU troop presence, not including the dog

Some of the equipment at the checkpoint

After visiting the monastery, we headed to Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, where we spent the night. The Hotel Afa in Pristina. The decor of my room was what I would call "Early Whorehouse", and the bathroom had a combination whirlpool/steam bath.

My room

In my bathroom

View from my room

Day 6: Pristina and Skopje (Macedonia)

We began the day with a driving and walking tour of Pristina. The city was very pleasant with a huge main square, which seems to be typical of Eastern European cities. The National Library was particularly striking.

The National Library

Church of Christ the Savior, started in 1995, but still unfinished

I don't know what this is, but it's impressive

Mother Teresa square

Pictures of people missing in the Kosovo war

Government building and statue

Kosovans (?) strolling in Mother Teresa Square

Zahir Pajaziti was one of the Kosovo Liberation Army

On our way out of Pristina, we passed by Bill Clinton Boulevard (picture courtesy of Jeff Anderson):

After touring Pristina, we headed out of town to the Gracanica Monastery

New apartments on the outskirts of Pristina

Memorial to the missing of the Kosovo war

The Gracanica Monastery is located in the town of Gracanica, just outside of Pristina. The monastery was built in 1321. Unfortunately, there was a funeral in process when we arrived, so we couldn't go into the monastery itself.

Gracanica Monastery

Rear view of Gracanica Monastery

From the monastery, we headed to Skopje, the capital of Macedonia. Macedonia is another former Yugoslav republic. In fact, you will often see it referred to at FYR Macedonia, where "FYR" stands for "Former Yugoslav Republic", to distinguish it from the Macedonia region of Greece.

Somewhere in Macedonia (or maybe Kosovo)

This is prohibited, whatever it is

Euro Super gas

Our first stop in Skopje was the former train station, which has been turned into a museum. In 1963 (on my birthday, no less), Skopje suffered a massive earthquake at 5:17 AM. The train station was heavily damage, and you'll notice that both the station clocks still read 5:17.

Former Skopje rail station

The city apparently recovered from the earthquake, and is probably the nicest city we encountered on the tour. We drove around the city before having lunch and embarking on a walking tour.

On the street in Skopje

Church of St. Clement of Ohrid

Some artwork in central Skopje

The old market area

Yugoslav military paraphernalia are a hot item

After lunch, we walked over to Mustafa Pasha Mosque, which was built in 1492.

Mustafa Pasha Mosque

Inside the mosque

From the mosque, we walked to Skopje Fortress, parts of which date to the 6th century.

View of the national stadium from the fortress

Part of Skopje fortress

View of the fortress and the town (I love the Macedonian flag)

Part of central Skopje from the fortress

We then walked from the fortress, through the old market area to the center of Skopje.

In the market area

A 15th Century inn (caravansary) in the market area

View of the fortress from the market area

A local musician

I have no idea what these are

When we got to the center of the city, we encountered (but unfortunately didn't go in) the Holocaust Memorial Center, dedicated to the Jews of Macedonia who died in the Holocaust. The center is located on the site of the former Jewish community of Skopje.

Holocaust Memorial Center

The center of the city was very nice with the (standard) huge central plaza and lots of nice buildings on the plaza and the river.

Some local residents

The site of Mother Teresa's birthplace is located near the center of Skopje.

From Skopje, we drove to the city of Ohrid, still in Macedonia, where we had dinner and spent the night. Dinner offerings included "Roast girl's dream" and "Shatobrianne for 2 persons".

"Skopsko" beer

We were also entertained by a group playing the latest Macedonian hits.

After dinner, we walked to our hotel.

Day 7: Ohrid, Macedonia

Our hotel in Ohrid

View from my hotel room

At breakfast in the hotel restaurant

One member of our tour group was an 87-year-old man named Juan. Juan is from Peru, but now lives in California, and had no problem keeping up with us. He has been to about 100 countries, including North Korea. I want to be like Juan when I grow up.

Front view of Juan with his North Korea shirt

Back view of Juan's shirt

The morning and early afternoon were devoted to a walking tour of Ohrid. Ohrid dates back to at least the 4th Century BC and has been occupied by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Slavs, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Ottomans, and Albanians, to name a few. The city is situated on the shore of Lake Ohrid.

One of many churches in Ohrid

A back alley

The first stop on our walking tour was the National Workshop for Handmade Paper. We saw a demonstration of paper making, as well as one of only two copies of the original Gutenberg printing press in the world.

Paper making demonstration

Copy of the Gutenberg press

A Zastava 126

Back streets of Ohrid

Church of St. Sophia, parts of which date to the 9th century

Excavation of mosaic floors near the Church of St. Sophia

Mosaic floor

More mosaics

Our next stop was the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid, which was built in 200 BC.

From the amphitheater, there is a nice view of Samuel's Fortress, above the town.

Church of Holy Mary Perybleptos (not a misspelling), near the ampitheater

From the amphitheater, we headed up to Samuel's Fortress, which was built in the 10th century, on the site of an earlier fortification, built in the 4th century BC.