Around the World With Uncle Moose: Days 10-12: Bukhara, Uzbekistan

November 2: Samarkand to Bukhara

(Note: portions in italics and quotes are descriptions of activities from the tour brochure)

Today was spent almost entirely on the road, driving from Samarkand to Bukhara.

Here are a few from the road:

Late in the morning we visited a market in the middle of nowhere. More locals happy to pose for us and with us.

Along the way we stopped at a the remains of a caravanserai, a road stop for Silk Road caravans. I believe this one dated from the 12 century.

More roadside scenery.

Just before dark we arrived in Bukhara. According to one web site:

Bukhara is one of the most ancient cities of Uzbekistan, situated on a sacred hill, the place where sacrifices were made by fire-worshippers in springtime. This city was mentioned in a holy book "Avesto". Bukhara city is supposed to be founded in the 13th cent. B.C. during the reign of Siyavushids who came to power 980 years before Alexander the Great. The name of Bukhara originates from the word "vihara" which means "monastery" in Sanskrit. The city was once a large commercial center on the Great Silk Road.

We immediately settled into our hotel, Sasha and Son. The hotel was a large 19th century house that had been converted into a "boutique" hotel.

Entrance to the hotel

Courtyard of the hotel. My room is left center, on the second floor

The rooms were incredibly decorated, and of varying sizes. The largest room, below, went to a couple that was celebrating their anniversary.

My room was substantially smaller, but still nicely decorated.

My room

My room, looking the other way

The door to my room used a padlock

Since it was late in the day, we decided to have a vodka taste-off. My contribution was the second bottle below, which I got for about $1.50 at a duty-free shop on the Tajikistan-Uzbekistan border. Some other folks had gone to a little store next to the hotel and gotten bottles ranging in price from $3 to $5. In my opinion, I got the best bang for the buck.

Those who didn't drink vodka weren't left out

November 3: A Day in Bukhara

"Explore the Lyabi-Hauz plaza. With the feel of a true oasis in an oasis town, the Lyabi-Hauz plaza is at the center of Bukhara's old town and is -- as it has been throughout history -- a place to meet friends, to eat, to drink, and to relax in the shade. The atmosphere is cooled by the long rectangular reflecting pool that makes up the center of the plaza, and by the shade of the trees that ring the plaza. The mulberry trees here are hundreds of years old and frame the 16th- and 17th-century madrassahs that make up three of the four edges of the ensemble."

Unfortunately it rained (sometimes hard) this morning and the temperature was about 40 degrees, but that didn't keep us from wandering through the plaza and other parts of the center city.

Entering the plaza

Sculpture in front of the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrassah, built in 1622

The madrassah without the sculpture

Non-reflecting pool at the center of the plaza

Nadir Divan-begi Khanaka (1620), across the pool from the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrassah

We then wandered off the main plaza on to some of the narrow side streets. On one of the side streets was the Bukhara Jewish Community center. There was also a synagogue, but we didn't visit that until the next day.

At the Jewish Community Center

Inside the Jewish community center

A bit of rain didn't deter us

Another mosque--not sure which one

In the central area, there are 4 "trading domes", where trading was done in the old days, and where souvenirs are sold today.

Heading for a trading dome to get out of the rain

Ceiling of one of the trading domes

Inside a trading dome

In one of the trading domes we went to a carpet store where we were treated to a fashion show with audience participation.

The first stage of fashion

Totally fashionable

Carpets for our perusal

After we got out of the carpet shop, the rain stopped and things cleared up. I had a chance to wander and do a little shopping

View from a shopping dome

We then headed down another street to the Poi Kalon complex, consisting of the Kalyan mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrassah, parts of which date from the 12th century.

Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, from 1535

Mir-i-Arab Madrasah

Part of Kalyan Mosque

Courtyard of Kalyan Mosque

Panoramic shot of Kalyan Mosque

Kalyan Minaret, from the 12th century

The area around the Poi-Kalon complex had lots of shops and interesting people.

We returned back to Lyabi-Hauz plaza for lunch--this time we had much better weather than in the morning.

After lunch we headed to the Ark Citadel.

"Continue to explore Bukhara, including its Ark Citadel -- the original fortress of Bukhara that likely dates back two thousand years or more. The current structure has been built and rebuilt on the same site throughout its history, and has preserved something of the form, purpose and function of the first ark. Like the medieval castle complexes of Europe, the Bukhara Ark served the Emirs of Bukhara as a residence, audience hall and as protection from neighboring enemies. An expert discusses the bountiful archaeological excavations in the Bukhara region at the Ark Citadel. "

The side of the Ark

Corner of the Ark

Entrance to the Ark

7th century painting in the Ark

Inside the Ark

We then headed to the Samanid Mausoleum, which was built in the 8th or 9th century.

An amusement park next to the mausoleum

Samonid Mausoleum

Old city walls of Bukhara, near the mausoleum

We then drove through the modern part of Bukhara, heading for dinner.

"Dinner at a private house. Dinner today includes a master class in the art of making plov (or pilaf), Central Asia’s most ubiquitous dish. Learn how the freshest ingredients are combined to create the savory concoction that you will then consume."

An old Soviet short wave radio that was in the house. Practice your Cyrillic.

November 4: Another day in Bukhara

Our first stop was a small mosque away from the center of Bukhara. Its main claim to fame is that it is on the cover of the Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia.

I told you so!

Soviet souvenirs near the mosque

Next stop was the Emir's Summer Palace, which was built by the Russians for the local khan.

"A short distance outside of the city sits the Palace of Moon and Stars, or the Summer Palace of the last Emir of Bukhara, built at the turn of the century after the Russians took control of Bukhara. The palace itself is something of a showpiece, as it was designed to keep the emir in luxury, but removed from the city, in isolation and politically impotent. The main palace is a mixture of local materials, regional influences and Russian style. Western furniture abounds, but design choices reflect traditional Uzbek decorations."

But first a stop for some trademark infringement

Entrance to the Summer Palace

Saleslady at the Summer Palace

Obligatory group of locals wanting their picture taken

Cleaning up at the Summer Palace

Inside the Summer Palace

Pavillion (or similar) at the Summer Palace

Harem Quarters at Summer Palace, now a museum

Locals visiting the palace

After visiting the palace, we headed back to the center of Bukhara for a crafts demonstration.

"Witness artisans at work in the USAID-UNESCO Handicraft Development Center near Lyabi-Hauz Plaza. Learn about the history of their crafts at a special presentation by the artisans themselves."

After lunch, we visited the synagogue.

"In the mid 19th century 2,500 families of prosperous merchants were estimated to have been living here. Cut off in the 15th century from contact with other Jews, the Bukharan Jews developed their own dialect of the Tajik-Persian language that incorporates many Hebrew words, their own style of dress and their own unique form of Judaism. The only Bukharan synagogue allowed by the Soviets to remain is an unassuming place near the Lyabi-Hauz pool. Almost underground and still somewhat run-down, the synagogue is the center of life for Bukhara's greatly diminished Jewish community. Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union, more than 70,000 Jews have left Uzbekistan."

The synagogue "complex" consists of two rooms, separated by a courtyard.