Message from Luang Prabang (10 FEB)

EDITOR'S NOTE:  During my trip I periodically sent emails describing my adventures to a group of friends, relatives and co-workers who had previosly indicated that they would not be bored or offended by them.  This is my first message, sent after my 2nd day in Luang Prabang.

I am currently a week into a trip to Southeast Asia.  Rather than try and describe everything, I'll just answer the questions that many of you have either asked, or should have asked:

1. Why isn't your lovely wife with you?
   
   My lovely wife doesn't much care for places with squat toilets, although I haven't actually encountered one yet.  On the, hand, after 5 minutes in Yangon/Rangoon, she would have been running back to the comfort of our hotel.



2. So, where are you going? 
   
   I departed Washington to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, then to Bangkok, then Rangoon/Yangon, Burma/Myanmar, Luang Prabang, Laos (where I am now), Hanoi, Hue, and Saigon, Vietnam, Siem Reap, Cambodia, Bangkok, Seoul, Los Angeles, Dallas, RDU.



3. Where is your luggage?
   
   An excellent question.   I had my bag checked through from Washington through Addis Ababa to Bangkok, but when I got to Bangkok, the bag was not there.  Since then it has been chasing me through Southeast Asia.  Recently, it was being held hostage in Yangon, but it has been released and is supposedly headed to Hanoi, where I am headed later today. 



4. No problem, you can just buy some clothes over there, right?
   
   Only if I lose 70 pounds and shrink 3 inches.



5. So, how was Addis Ababa?
   
   I was supposed to spend a whole day in Addis Ababa, but my flight from Washington was delayed 12 (yes twelve) hours, so instead of getting a full-day tour of Addis Ababa, I got to spend 5 hours in transit at the Addis Ababa airport, where their smoking policy is that you are required to smoke.  There are many better places to spend 5 hours.



6. How do Asian and African airlines compare with American carriers?
   
   With one exception, they have reinforced my experience that the worst foreign airlines are better than the best American carriers.  I have flown Bangkok Airways twice, and they have served complete meals on 1 hour flights in spotless planes.  Air Asia (Yangon to Bangkok) was an excellent plane and service, but you had to pay for everything.  None of them charged for luggage (which was moot, since I don't have any).  Even Ethiopian Airlines had a new 777 and excellent service (except for the 12-hour delay) from Washington to Addis Ababa.  The only exception was the Ethiopian flight from Addis Ababa to Bangkok on an old 767--that one reminded me of American Airlines.  Next time, I'll have a report on Vietnam Airlines. 



7. What is Rangoon/Yangon like?
   
   Like a step back into history, and I don't mean that in a good way.  The central area was built by the British between the 1890's and the 1930's, and hasn't been touched since.  It's kind of like I would imagine Havana to be, except all of the cars are from the 1980's. (Or maybe like India, without cows in the streets). The outer areas of the city are more modern, but still not up to western standards.  There are a few nice houses and buildings, but once you walk out into the street, you're still in a really poor country.  The biggest danger is breaking your ankle trying to walk down a sidewalk.  On the other hand, the people are very friendly and open, and I saw no evidence of a heavy-handed dictatorship (although I suspect it is still there). 
   
   There are a few very nice hotels in Yangon, and fortunately, I was in one of them.  It's one of the places were foreign businessmen and diplomats stay, so inside the hotel, it was like you were at the Ritz-Carlton, but once you stepped outside, everything changed.
   
   The highlight of my time in Rangoon was the Shwedagon temple.  Words don't do it justice, so just Google it or wait until I get the pictures online. 
   
   Despite rumors that the government was restricting access to the Internet and Skype, I had no problem communicating back home.  I was using the internet at the hotel and the airport, so maybe they weren't restricting it there.
   
   BTW, the Yangon airport is very nice, but apparently they won't let you spend the night there.



8. What is Luang Prabang?
   
   It's a town (about 70,000) in Laos that has dozens of Buddhist temples.  The entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so the center of town is completely preserved.  It's a big backpacker's destination, so every building that's not a temple is either a guesthouse or a travel agency.  It's got a very low key vibe.--very walkable and wonderful (and cheap restaurants).  Full of Americans, Canadians, Germans, and Aussies.  Yesterday I rode an elephant for an hour, and visited a really neat waterfall.   The night market (which is basically thousands of souvenir stalls) is right outside my hotel.  Not a single McDonalds or Starbucks in sight.



9. Are the immigration and customs people nasty Communists? 
   
   They may be communists, but the people at the passport stations have been very friendly and helpful.



10. Have you bought a carpet yet? 
    
    Both in Rangoon and Luang Prabang, the sellers are very low key.  You still have to bargain a price, but they don't chase you around and grab you if you try to walk out.
     



11. What's the strangest thing you have eaten?
    
    Deep fried river weed from the Mekong River.  A little greasy, but otherwise pretty good.  There have been a few dishes that contained things that I couldn't identify, but so far no major digestive issues.



12. You've seen lots of Buddhist temples.  Can you explain Buddhism?
    
    No.



13. When do we get to see pictures?
    
    If you check out my Facebook page, you can see a few right now.  I will be back in the USA on the 25th, and I should have some posted on my web site or Picasa within a couple of weeks.

OK, gotta catch my flight to Hanoi.  You've been a lovely audience.  Keep those questions coming.

Next--Temples and More Temples in Luang Prabang