Sunday, November 22, 2015

Days 19-20: Takoradi and Accra, Ghana

Today we arrived at Takoradi, Ghana.  Takoradi is actually part of a twin city called Sekondi-Takoradi, but all of our time was spent in Takoradi.  Sekondi-Takoradi has a population of about 450,000.  For some reason, all of the shore excursions in Ghana were ridiculously expensive (about $200 per person), so we decided to just take a shuttle into Takoradi.

On the way to the center of Takoradi

The center of Takoradi is a large circle, occupied by the main market.  Today was Sunday, so only about 20% (if that many) of the stores were open, and the city in general was pretty empty.  Below are a few shots from the market area.












Since we were staying on the ship, we missed the opportunity to overnight at the Zenith Hotel (in the background, below)


Nor did we have the opportunity to purchase any cows feets.


There were a few modern buildings in Takoradi, as we saw on our way back to the ship.



At dinner that night we had a chance to sit at a table with Edward Peck, a former ambassador, and one of the lecturers on the ship.  We had a lively conversation about the current state of the world, and we agreed upon a solution to the crisis in the Middle East, but due to the unlimited wine, I forgot what it was.

Ambassador Peck and a distinguished guest

November 22

Today we arrived at the port in Accra, Ghana where our cruise ended.  We had to be off the ship by 9:30 AM, but our flight home didn't leave until 10:00 PM, so I booked a tour of Accra with a local tour company.  We successfully navigated ourselves off the ship at 9:30 and proceeded to the spot where the tour guide was supposed to meet us.  Of course, there was nobody there who gave any indication of being from the tour company.  There were a couple of people directing traffic around the (mobbed) area, so we asked one of them if they were aware of the tour company.  He then asked another person, who asked another person, who asked another person.  Eventually, one of the people told us to get into an unmarked SUV.  The SUV driver seemed to be trying to make contact with the tour company, and eventually they drove us about 50 yards to another SUV that had 2 Russian tourists in it and we were told that this SUV was our vehicle.  The guide from this vehicle called the owner of the tour company, and we eventually verified to my satisfaction that this was the correct vehicle.  So, at about 10:00 AM, and with another cultural experience in my pocket, we headed into Accra.

Ghana, which was originally a British Colony (Gold Coast) is one of the most stable and prosperous countries in West Africa.  Accra is the capital, and has about 2.7 million people.   The port for Ghana (Tema) is actually about 15 miles out of town. On the way into town, we passed several impressive modern buildings, including the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Palace (Flagstaff House)

Our first stop was at the National Museum, which considerably more impressive than the National Museum in The Gambia.

Exterior of the National Museum


Interior of the National Museum

We then headed for the center of town, which had several British Colonial buildings, including the old Supreme Court building.

Old Supreme Court

In west Africa in general, but particularly in Accra, we saw lots of people walking around with huge boxes and packages on their heads.


Also in central Accra was the Kwame Nkrumah museum and memorial park.  Kwame Nkrumah (no relation to Kwame Kilpatrick) was the first president of Ghana after the country gained its independence in 1957.  He was overthrown in a coup in 1966.

During the coup, a statue of Nkrumah was toppled and the head came off.  The statue and head have since been moved to the memorial park.


In the center of the park is the mausoleum, shown in the pictures below.




Another statue (with head) is in front of the mausoleum.



Also on display is Nkrumah's 1963 Cadillac.


From the Nkrumah memorial, we went to a (relatively) upscale part of town called Osu.  I became very agitated, thinking we were going to a satellite campus of Ohio State University, but I eventually determined that was not the case.  

More package balancing

In the Osu (not OSU) district

While we were in Osu, our guide asked us if we wanted lunch, and we said "sure".  The driver then pulled into a KFC and asked if it was OK with us.  I said "fine" and got out of the car.  The two Russian tourists (women in their 20's) didn't get out of the car, and the guide asked them if they wanted lunch.  One of them said (and I quote), "Ve dahnt eet in places like dis".  So they stayed in the car.  We went in and I had a spicy chicken sandwich, which was quite good.  I am also pleased to report that the restrooms far exceeded the standards of KFC's in the United States.

In the KFC

After lunch, we went back to the center of town to Independence Square, (also known as Black Star Square) which is the second largest public square in the world, after Tiananmen Square in Beijing.

Independence Square

Reviewing stand at Independence Square

View of the beach from Independence Square

Next to the square is the National Stadium


From the square, we went to the craft market, where the vendors easily met West African standards for aggressiveness.



Next, we went to an area about 2 miles from central Accra called James Town, which was the location of the original British settlement.  

An old British Church, just outside James Town

Today James Town is basically a slum, populated by people who make a living fishing.  Some of the views of the fishing boats are photogenic, but if you turn the other way, it's not pleasant.

A James Town resident

Fishing boats at James Town.  The reviewing stand at Independence square is in the background



Mr. Bannerman is running for MP from Odododiodioo

 One can climb the lighthouse at James Town for a view of the surrounding area.

James Town Light House

View from the lighthouse, looking towards central Accra

Looking in the other direction

From James Town, we headed to the airport.  On our way we passed through Makola Market, the main market of Accra.  To say that it was mobbed would be an understatement--it took us about a half an our to go about 5 blocks.




From the market, proceeded to the airport.

The National Theater

Selling corn near the airport

Finally, we were dropped off at Kotoka International Airport, for our 30-hour journey home, via Amsterdam and Atlanta.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a2/Kotoka_International_Airport_Accra_-_Terminal.jpg
So long, Ghana!




Saturday, November 21, 2015

Day 18: Abidjan, Ivory Coast

Days 16 and 17 were uneventful days at sea, sailing around Ebola-land (Guinea-Bissau, Sierra Leone, and Liberia).

November 21

This morning we arrived at Abidjan, the capital of the Ivory Coast.  Since it was a French colony, the country is officially known as "Côte D'Ivoire", but I don't want to have to key in an "ô" every time I mention the country.  Unlike Senegal, the Ivory Coast has had more than it's share of coups, and a couple of recent civil wars.  Fortunately, I was not aware of this during our visit.

Abidjan is the largest city in the Ivory Coast, and the second largest in West Africa (behind Lagos, Nigeria), with about 4 million people.  It was the capital until 1983, when the capital was moved to Yamoussoukro.  Downtown Abidjan is pretty modern, but things deteriorate as you go farther out into the country.

Our tour today took in Abidjan, followed by a visit to the French colonial town of Grand-Bassam, about 15 miles away.  The next few shots are from central Abidjan.







St. Paul's Cathedral, built in the 1980's

"ADO" is Alassane Dramane Ouattara, the President--he won the election



Sofitel Abidjan Hotel Ivoire

As we left Abidjan for Grand-Bassam, things got decidedly more rural and less prosperous.





Grand-Bassam was the capital of the Ivory Coast in the 1890's, but the capital was moved because of flooding and yellow fever epidemics.  A lot of the colonial buildings remain, but there's not that much else there. 


A street in Grand-Bassam

An old colonial building

More colonial architecture

Our first destination in Grand Bassam was the Musée National du Costume. The Wikipedia Entry for the museum tells you pretty much all you need to know. 


The front of the Museum

In back of the museum

One thing I hadn't noticed until we were getting back on the bus at the museum, is that we had a bit of security with us....


We got back on the bus and drove literally half a block to an oceanside resort for some refreshments and a concert by an African drum and dance group.

Vendors waiting for the bus after our exhausting 1/2 block trip

Enjoying a coconut at the resort

On the grounds of the resort

On the beach

The pool at the resort

Our security buddies

Vendors on the beach

The performance (which was very good)


When we got back on the bus, we had to battle through a phalanx of vendors trying to sell us stuff.


On our way out of Grand-Bassam, we encountered a parade, including one participant who apparently had never seen a tour bus, so he took a photo of us.


More scenery from Grand Bassam

We then headed back to Abidjan, passing lots of villages, markets, and shops along the way.




While we were in Grand-Bassam, it apparently poured in Abidjan.  This was the only rain that we encountered on the trip, and technically we didn't even encounter it.

Rain didn't help the street conditions





Back in Abidjan, we passed through a couple of more modern areas, and then stopped at a craft market.   The sellers in Abidjan were easily as aggressive as those in Dakar and Banjul.




That night on the ship, the entertainers and crew put on their "farewell show".





Next: Days 19-20: Takoradi and Accra, Ghana